Bornholm - how it happened that we landed there for a long weekend, I do not know until now. Maybe it is exceptionally unfavorable weather conditions in the rest of the country, maybe reluctance to Zakopianka in the first week of holidays, or maybe just looking for a place to rest in peace and quiet. The island is ideally suited to it ... almost.
We came to the weather perfectly. Classically for the Baltic region, it is colder in the summer and warmer in the winter. I did not think that I would wait for the times in which we will be in the summer they were driving in the coldto rest. The forecast looked exactly the opposite than eg for the Tatras and on the 3rd day we discovered that 0% of rainfall means that it will either rain or it will not be. As it started to rain, the forecast immediately changed to 40% rain and when the sun came out after a while, it returned to its previous state.
We decide to bring bunkers with us, because the island is small, small hills, small night, so it fits the bike. On the spot, however, there is no problem with renting at a price of around PLN 30 / day - rentals are in every major city, especially those located close to the ports.
Bornholm - what is it?
Bornholm is a Danish island located some 100 km from the Polish coast - slightly larger than Warsaw, and the population from Wilanów. A characteristic feature that we get to know after the first one googlowaniu phrases "what to see"Is the fact that there is nothing there. It's good, we do not have time to prepare properly until we leave. The decision to take such a direction takes place the day before and we go practically in the dark. In the end, it was the fact that at a random moment, somehow during the booking of accommodation at Suwałki, several places on the ferry were vacated. We threw everything and decided to go to (relatively) the far north.
In fact, Bornholm is a big meadow (yes Urban they say to cultivated fields they can not identify) surrounded by water.
Bornholm - how much does it cost?
Ferries sail from Kołobrzeg and Świnoujście. The first one is a little closer, the latter is swimming in a slightly better place, but it does not matter, because the loop around the island is about 105km, so we'll be everywhere.
We buy tickets for a cruise from Kołobrzeg here (other parties seem to be intermediaries). Price? PLN 160 per person, one way + PLN 25 for a bike. There is also an option to pay PLN 210 for two pages if we return on the same day. The ferry leaves at 7 am and arrives at 11.30 am, returns to the return journey at 17.30 and arrives 4.5h later. Four and a half hours on the ferry is a lot.
Bornholm has not yet invented large hotels and comprehensive SPAs, full of expensive rooms with sea views. There are camping, hostels and cottages. Camping costs PLN 200-350 per night (for 2-4 people), a camping place a little over PLN 70-100 per night, hotels PLN 500-800 (two people), hostels somewhere between. If you are traveling a bigger team, you should consider renting the entire house. We decide on the only right option - BAR, available at this campground. It is very similar to the one in which we slept in Bieszczady, but a bit more luxurious (for a barrel).
Like granaries, we pay extra PLN 100 for bedding for two days and we pay for PLN 3 for every three minutes of a warm shower.
How much is the fish?
The stores are expensive (although there is Lidl and Net), in pubs even more expensive. A hamburger is a stew, a pizza PLN 50, a classic sandwich with herring (more restaurant than on the island of Usedom) - PLN 60. Generally rather hard.
Important information for people living in the past: there is no currency exchange office on the island. If you want to exchange money, there are only banks or withdrawals from ATMs.
Bornholm: what to see?
I do not know ;-). For simplicity, I attach an overview map. Bornholm is in the vast majority of cultivated fields with cereals, one larger fragment of the forest with a small hill and asphalt around the island. Exactly the same as on our coast. The exception is north-west, which looks like our Cracow-Częstochowa Jura (about which I wrote recently), move to the sea. There are several beaches, some cliffs, nice houses, but generally the same as with us. This is the right moment to ask yourself an extremely difficult question that spent the first few hours sleeping with our eyes (and it was good, because otherwise we would fall asleep):
Why go there, when there is nothing?
The best summary of the island is:
Bornholm is nice
Bornholm consists mainly of fields, but also from an incredibly large number of perfectly even asphalts. Despite the size of the island, I think that trying to pass everyone is a road challenge for a few days, though I do not know why anyone would try this. On the third day of filming around, we were already paranoid, that we were hanging around and maybe we would never get out of the asphalt crossing the field. On the other hand, it's an island and it's exactly like that.
What distinguishes the region from other places is a total emptiness. I would describe the movement as marginal on the vast majority of roads. This place is so friendly to every type of biker that it can not be more. No wonder that meeting a man other than a cyclist is a real challenge. People come here with panniers and / or children (maybe those without children just keep them in bags as a savings) and go around the island, sleeping on the way at a campground. 235 km of bicycle routes are impressive, but even on normal streets, traffic is less than on our bike paths (ie we meet fewer cars on the streets there than cars on bicycle paths here).
In addition, everything here is stress-free (if you are not stressed paying a lot). To the extent that bicycles are not attached. The view of the road Trek left somewhere (on the foot) at the car park or under the trail is not strange. Perfect - a world where people do not steal bikes must be great. I suspect that they do not steal a lot of other things, because the normal thing is here stands with potatoes / honey / handicrafts exhibited along the road, along with the can and information how much money should be thrown into it, if we decide to buy.
It's the most ideal of perfect places for a family trip on a bike or beginnings with szosą / trekkingiem / składakiem / panniercy. I've already said the same about Island of Usedom, truth? Bornholm is a higher level.
I present to you an optimal trip to Bornholm:
Potentially perfect trip plan:
1. We depart from Kołobrzeg at 7.00 by Jantar ferry.
Along with us, about 250 people are on their way (and apparently almost 200 bicycles). A safe time reserve is the appearance of 30-40 minutes before sailing. We put in advance, thanks to which we occupy exclusive places on the highest deck. After an hour of looking at the empty horizon, inhaling exhaust fumes and freezing in the wind, we decide to move to the plebiscite decks, this is unfortunately all busy, so we decide to continue our exclusive attitude and sleep on the floor in the corridor:
2. We get off at Nexø
It is very important to set up when leaving the ferry about 30 minutes before sailing. This allows you to look with contempt on the other 200 people, which crowds at the exit only 25 minutes ahead of time. We leave the deck first and accept the pose wygrywów... waiting for the service to give us bicycles. Of course, according to the LIFO queue principle, those who entered first, the bikes receive the last.
The first thing you should do in Nexø is to go for breakfast to Nexø Gammel Røgeri.
3. We are eating herring
Herring with onion, chives, radish and yolk, served on bread is called Nexø Special and according to the internet, eating it is the most important thing to do on the island. Only 5-star ratings on Google. As fanatics herring in a sandwich, we can justify a 1000km trip to Usedom just to eat a roll for a few euros ... but here we leave disappointed like never before. No follow me has ever let me down like this. However, do not trust us, since people say that it is great, it must be great.
4. We are moving west, because there must be a civilization there
There are three roads:
red (route 10), that is, the one that orbits the island and we decide. It is dramatically boring and almost always against the wind (usually blowing from the west), which additionally more attractive ride. The upside is that in the south there are all the best (if you like sand) beaches on the island and it is right next to them (although you can not see them). I do not conceal that after a dozen or so kilometers we have very black thoughts and we are both afraid that our 3-day stay will last for weeks. There are various thoughts in my head about all those bloggers who dissolve over the views on the internet. Let's be honest, the views are similar to those that can be seen near Łuków or even Garwolin - connecting with animals. The only difference is the sea in the distance seen from time to time. We spend many stressful hours before discovering that Bornholm is about something completely different.
green (route 21), that is through the fields that we will be watching for many hours during this trip, but lets see the bison in Aakirkeby.
yellow (route 22), i.e. a road through the forest (probably the only large forest on the island). It allows you to reach the highest hill on the island, Rytterknægten. On the hill there is a free observation tower, which is worth climbing. Dizzy 162 meters above sea level is just 8m lower than the highest peak in the whole country, but thanks to the tower, we are supposedly in the highest point of the country. I feel like in Mazovia. There is also a good chance of meeting the bus with retired Germany.
In Denmark, everything above 100m above sea level is considered to be the mountain.
Here's a link to the map (pdf) with these routes, because I do not know whose it and I do not want to steal.
4. Ice cream in Rønne
Rønne is the largest city on the island. If there is something better than herring in the world, it can only be ice cream. We buy two on the market Bornholmer Softicebecause it sounds like ice, and traditionally and locally. Cream-strawberry with sprinkles, salty caramel tastes like foam from the market, only without a chemical aftertaste, but instead dipped in sugar. For two large (actually large) ice cream, we pay about PLN 50. Panda throws it away, because it turns out that in chemical foam chemistry was good. It's one of the worse ice cream we've eaten for a long time and I feel like it wygooglać now every blogger who recommended them and give him a personal visit. The trip is practically ruined, because both herring and ice have failed. Adding to this the fact of moving on roads leading through areas that look like copy-pasta, we are getting more and more fearful about the purpose of this trip.
5. Overnight in a barrel in Hasle
We quickly remind ourselves that all this is not true. It is still clou program and the best thing in the world, or overnight in a barrel. Residential barrels at the campground Hasle Camping there are probably 4, plus one pretending dining room and one converted into a sauna and like in the Bieszczady Mountains, they are brilliant.
We can spend the rest of the day exploring the coast, because it is in Hasle that the best part of the island begins.
It is also nice that the barrels are placed some 150 meters from the sea, so we fall asleep with nice noise coming from behind a small window.
A day between Hasle and Allinge.
In fact, it could be squeezed in the previous day or spend half a day here and go on a ferry at 17.30, but in my opinion, it's worth one day to spend it without worrying about anything. The lands between Hasle and Allingle are very good and if the whole island looked like that, I would call it sztosu.... but it does not look like it. Generally, it is something like a Jury with access to the sea. Driving on terrain and asphalt road by the sea (definitely better than asphalt, stretching a bit further), we will come across:
6. A classic, Scandinavian path by the sea
which ends near the famous Jons Kapel rock formation and reminds us a bit expedition to Norway. In gratisie we get a shorter, but stiff, driveway that definitely exceeds 20%. Jons Kapel we miss or maybe we avoid intentionally, seeing what awaits us in a moment.
7. A quarry in Vang
The quarry in Vanga consists of roads that are a dream of a gravel worker (until he discovers how short fragments are), a lake, bridges and a rock wall that looks like a small version of the wall from Gry o Tron. People generally do not come here - because for what, why it is quite nice. The visit is accompanied by one hundred thousand gulls (maybe slightly exaggerated), which, seeing Panda, rise to flight and make sounds known from breaks in elementary school. Worth it.
8. Ruins of Hammershus Castle
A castle like a castle ... or rather what remains of it. Apparently the largest in Northern Europe, but it's hard to judge, as it is no more than it is. I will say without saying anything - the island's greatest attraction, apparently. We pass the ruins twice - around noon there is the largest gathering of tourists that we saw on the island (in a normal country we would call it "almost empty"), in the evening they are practically empty, and thanks to the location on the west side, they look quite nice.
9. Area around Opalsøen lake
Opalsøen is a lake that is reminiscent of Krakow's Zakrzówek ... only people are less. The combination of several lakes, rocks, forest and behind the sea hill makes it worth abandon a bike for a while and go for a walk along the trail surrounding this small peninsula. With the bike it is not feasible, but I have mentioned earlier, you should not worry about it, even if it is left untouched in the parking lot.
10. Allinge Røgeri
One to rule everyone. If I had to choose one, the only thing for which to visit Bornholm, it is the smokehouse in Allinge, i.e. Nordbornholms Rogeri. Smokehouses on the island are easy to get to know, have huge chimneys, but this one is special. Keyword: Fiskebuffet.
Behind staggering PLN 110 per person (plus drinks) we get a pair of cutlery and unlimited access to: herring in one hundred ways, salmon in one hundred ways, fish soups, squid, tuna, prawns, mackerel, fish balls, chicken, additives like bread, fries, vegetables, salads and many more things I can not identify. As if that was not enough, for dessert any amount of ice cream - both ball (a choice of a dozen flavors) and Italian with sprinkles and toppings. Each of these things is so fresh and so good that it puts in question any previous herring, tuna or salmon that I bought in the store.
I'm sorry, but I can not write about it or get into details because I'm sorry. I'm not saying that this is the best thing that you can eat on the island (probably a properly prepared and composed dish in the kitchen will be better), but if you are not a regular guest of the restaurant, and on Bornholm would like to try the so-called. sectional creme de la cremethat's what this place is for me.
As if that was not enough, the town itself, where the smokehouse is located, is one of the prettiest on the island. In general, the northern part of the island is prettier.
Looking at the occupancy of tables at the end of the day, it is worth booking a place earlier if you plan to go there for dinner.
11. Return to the barrel and a day of riding in random fields while waiting for the ferry
The third day is suitable to explore the interior of the island and see that, firstly, there is absolutely nothing there, and secondly, everything looks the same. Our day ends somewhat earlier than planned, so we do not see as many fields as we would like, because:
Bornholm - the safest place in the world.
We traveled in various strange places in life, we also did various strange things. Such driving a bunker after Moroccan Atlas Mountains and after Death Valley sounds quite uncommon. Bornholm is completely opposite to the extreme. It is so safe that I can not imagine what could be done to make it safer. And just like most things happen at home, it's how routine overcame us.
It would be useful to have an adventure
It was something like this: the town of Bølshavn - perfectly clean, almost sterile, like most of the local towns. Perfect asphalt, wide shoulders and different colors, almost zero traffic, slight descent - it looks like a wet dream of a cyclist.
I hear shit, I turn, the bike lies somewhere near the pavement, and Panda is not there. In my mind, a few theories: maybe ufo, maybe something stupid I thought blowing the candles on the birthday cake, or maybe she could not stand it anymore. I take a step back, start the inspection of the place and a few meters from the bike I see the broken and polished glasses. Strange thing would be Dr. Watson. I look at the hedge next to it, and there is a strange hole - I think: ultras somebody's sleeping. Only after a while I see a cracked green helmet appearing. It is Panda trying to climb out of the ditch, which, thanks to the roses growing in it, is not too easy. The initial inspection is about the loss of the elbow, knee, hip and many other, more or less random places.
For this standard set for garbage, ie: helmet, glasses, pedal, grips and so on ...
The pharmacy of Bornholm has 4, of which 2 open after 1pm on Saturday and both unfortunately in a completely different direction than we are going.
There are two interpretations of the event and none of them explains how it happened that the leading bicycle was a few meters away from him, lying in the bushes, facing in the direction (or more precisely the turn) opposite to riding. Panda claims that she stared somewhere and drove into the curb at a slight angle, I'm pretty sure she just fell asleep, because the third day here is already real hardcore for the senses ... maybe this accident was simply deliberate, because the lack of any stimuli began us
Summary in which I say is worth it, and you still do not know.
I would write that Bornholm is great and that it is worth it, but I'm not sure. Widokowo is mostly the same as on the Polish coast, but much nicer, because there are no cars, drunken crazy people, lots of tourists and in general peace and quiet.
If you're looking for it, you will not be disappointed. Bornholm is a cycling, tourist idyll and if you are not looking for it of monstrous squaresyou just want to drive around undemanding terrain or get your non-active friends into this kind of recreation, this is JUST A PLACE.
Well, unless you hit a nice trip on a camping trip, gentlemen who wake you up in the morning with a nice shout: "Staszek, fuck two water for tea!" or "You know how much the hookah cost here ?!", or on this ferry on the ferry who approaches your girlfriend, from whom blood is slowly sipping and as part of a conversation he throws: "and why was it repast? ". Then man also floods such blood, only from the inside ...
I am beginning to miss Bornholm on my first day in Warsaw. I drive myself with my companion, carrying a kilogram u-lock (because, as I write 0.5kg and write about it on the Internet, people will tell me that I have asked myself for theft) and see that at the intersection of Tamka z Topiel, a driver who does not he stood on the green arrow and the cyclist who was riding along the street next to the bike path. A big Roxana Coal, who chose Play, looks at it all with a smile. Because ... apart from the lack of big hotels and nerves on the streets, there are also no ubiquitous ads and scattered cars everywhere on Bornholm. This is a place that restores faith in people and once again makes us think about why we turned our civilization in the wrong direction.
And to you, who will write in the comment that there are foldbacks in the entry, so he despises and will not read this, we recommend a trip to the beautiful Kashubian town:
* drone shots were taken in accordance with the law. Before leaving, I filled out an online test of knowledge about Danish drone law, registered drone and received Drone Awareness Accreditation from Danish Transport, Construction and Housing Authority - It took half an hour.