I read my own previous entry on the blog and the first thought that came to my mind is: "daaamn, this guy needs Snickers". So I ate one, then the second, third - except that I felt fat and temporarily happy by the sugar spurt, it did not help. It was enough for the pool of 5 more people to leave the locker room, without closing the door behind them, then the guest appeared, waiting at the shore, until I reached him and moved with his slow pace right in front of me, and finally the guy called, however resigns from the purchase of a bicycle that I have already sent him on delivery. The goblet (a beautiful word) is bitter, we threw everything, we went to the Bieszczady Mountains.
I WOULD KNOW THAT I WILL LIKE TO LEAVE THOUSANDS OF HUNDRED HUMANS.
The goal: to minimize potential nerves, so we threw our folded bikes into our trunks to our friends and we set off on the most stress-free trip of my life. After all, the Bieszczady is an oasis of peace ... at least that was the assumption.
I am shaggy dool, not readable, no writings.
This is my first trip to the Bieszczady Mountains. Blame can be blamed on many things. For example, an obscenely large distance - especially temporary, as the roads are quite average. The fact that there were always some bigger mountains to visit. That the Bieszczady are not associated with a bicycle. The truth, however, is much simpler and anyone who grew up in the same time as me - perfectly understand it. The name says something to you: Devil's Pipe? It's such a trauma from youth: such a Buka, only for real hardcore. One can say that the happy devil inhabited the Hell Mountains, but deep down we all know that it was about the Bieszczady Mountains. The location has been changed only so as not to discourage tourists. On this day, more than 30 years of trauma has been broken.
Bieszczady is for me a synonym for the end of the world. A synonym of peace, the edge of civilization, rest and generally such Mr. Kononowicz. There are not many places in Poland, which reach 6.5 hours by car or with a little disaster even more. This is the place where this guy drove, what he dropped everything and covered the snow with his snow plow every day. Even the radio program announcing something about being the most crowded weekend this year in the region was not able to change this image. The fact that the booking and airbnb was 0 (in words: zero) free nights at a reasonable distance from the trails, and 100% of those found in the corners of the Internet wrote back that the weekend has no chance of peace, also did not give us food for thought.
We were going to have a moment of peace and quiet - nothing could stop us. We were kings of rest and relaxation.
Solina - a shot in the face of a half-turn
Our first stop is the water reservoir in Solina - the largest in Poland, 2 million tons of concrete. Impression slightly worse than the Hoover Dam described last year, but you can buy a painting with cats or a pillow with Robert.
A place where you can not take pictures, fly a drone, or visit turbines (unless you're a school trip) - a classic for strategically important objects. This is the first place we got from the leaf. A bit like on Krupówki. Nice, but the number of stands with salmon and the same trash as everywhere (only with the inscription Bieszczady) a little discouraging ... us, because looking after the crowd, others like it. It's a bit bigger, but not necessarily nicer by these circumstances, version of the dam in Wisła. We run away sooner than we have a good look around, not even trying to find a place to make a long journey.
Ustrzyki Dolne - kick to the ankle
The entry to Ustrzyki Dolne on an autumn evening, reminiscent of entering the village, which combines all the characteristic features of Otwock, London and Zakopane. Because you see, these billboards about the "winter capital of the Bieszczady", but you see them so completely, because they are covered with smoke from chimneys and garden fires where autumn leaves are obliterated. It creates such a specific atmosphere, something like London in the 1950s. Among the fetes of colorful, autumn colors immersed in gray, even the ubiquitous faces from election posters are breaking through. These faces will accompany us throughout the entire stay - no matter how much we end up at the end of the world.
If something in this entry is relevant, then the information that Ustrzyki Dolne has nothing to do with Ustrzyki Górne, and the upper ones are just a good starting point for hiking. In general, almost all places will be better for mountain hiking than Ustrzyki Dolne. As it turns out later, from the cycling perspective the choice was not so bad ... it's a pity that our priority was to go this time.
The biggest advantage of Ustrzyki Dolne is Biedronka, where you can get cheap Ukrainian sweets and pipes. Well, our accommodation, of course, but more on that.
We go to dinner at dinner teddy bear - a legendary eatery with a rating on the culinary critique - 5 pigs. we order a classic cutlet with carrot instead of cabbage, borscht and cake in Bieszczadzki with a set of salads. We get a carrot cake, a cutlet with cabbage and two soups. It's OK, but we will not be back any more. The next day, the choice will go to the pizza. From the oven Rod - big, good, with garlic sauce, which I still feel today. It is such an interesting place combining the service of a milk bar with a pizzeria.
I can not write anything more about Ustrzyki Dolne. Especially nothing good.
Ask the barrel
Our accommodation in Ustrzyki Dolne turns out to be really an overnight stay in Brzegi Dolne. Brzegi Dolne and Górne are just as much in common as Ustrzyki Dolne and Górne. They are somewhere else and instead of an easy trip they offer something different - what? I do not know.
Besides of course, our accommodation, which is probably the best accommodation we have had in our lives, because we live in ... a barrel (link to barrels). The barrel is a barrel, there are two benches used for tables / shelves / chairs and any other piece of furniture, large two-bed beds, under which there are two Bromptons and basically enough. This is the perfect solution, because you can be your head in the bedroom, hand in the kitchen, and foot in the hallway or even outside. The barrels are brilliant, and thanks to the small size we can change the temperature from Siberia to Africa in a few minutes in a small radiator.
And we find them quite by accident, somewhere between the choice of a small hotel located above the Żabka store, and a hotel reminiscent of the cheery 80's, Panda threw "Bieszczady jokes" on Google and barrels found us alone.
I'm afraid to drink.
the problem the attraction is of course the lack of a bathroom. There is a 70-meter walk to the toilet. In return, I am returning dehydrated - I am afraid to drink. Do you know that feeling when you feel in the middle of the night that you must urgently piss? You fight with yourself, calculate how much sleep you have left and what counts if it has a chance to go. And if you dream about a urinal? A little fear. Here the motivation to persevere is multiplied by the night frosts and the fear that on the way back I will freeze or at best, eat dogs when I lose my way in the dark. We have learned to overcome our own weaknesses. I guarantee you that no one, never in the history of mankind, has kept anything as long as me. Each night lengthened to weeks of struggle with oneself. The coach would be proud.
Look, that's how the nights would look like if it were not for us
The most important attraction of this trip begins on the first evening: it's a show Star Bieszczady. In short, someone noticed that the Bieszczady Mountains are slightly less civilized than the area and created the Star Sky Park here. That means it's darker here than anywhere else. Lanterns shine down, mountains cover the cars driving, and smog over larger towns does not allow the light to break through.
The show this time takes place on the Przełęcz Wyżna (link to altimeter) - this is definitely a place you want to visit with your road, but rather on the day when the piston will be slightly smaller. Excellent views attract a lot of people here. On the way, we pass the well-known place of Lutowiska. Known mainly for the fact that there is a parking lot where you can stop for a minute, shoot a photo with a panorama of mountains and go further. We stand, shoot a photo and run away from the people in cars.
There is not a single cloud in the sky that day and I have to say: "CIE LIGHT * UJ" (actually dark). Last time I saw something like that last year, in the Valley of Death. There are stars in the sky.
We spend the next two hours on the sun loungers, watching the guide show us a light beam, a Star Wars movie, more constellations, constellations, planets and formations, whose names I have already forgotten, alternating with looking at them through telescopes. I admit, observations with a telescope or binoculars do not rinse at all, but they are an interesting experience. If you live in a city where more visible objects move in the sky than in a place, a visit to the show is obligatory for me. One only note: if the lecturer writes in a text message to get dressed warmly, it is important to get COOLED. Even if you set off on a bicycle show in a short sleeve.
It was also the day when for the first time we learned that public transport in the Bieszczady Mountains does not exist in practice.
Tarnica - hitting a vaccine
Autumn Bieszczady are definitely beautiful.
But if I told you that the routes in the Bieszczady Mountains look like this, what would you say?
Sunday is a visit to probably the most popular hill in the area. Apart from Wetlina, it is probably the most popular trail - as people without experience in walking, so we decide to extend it a bit. What has it favored us to choose one of the warmest and nicest Sundays, in the most beautiful season of the year to come to this side? I do not know until now.
Ustrzyki Górne -> Tarnica -> Halicz -> Rozsypaniec -> Wołosate (link to stravy)
And they beat us on the face again. We are standing on a slightly wild, but paid and unguarded parking lot for PLN 17 and we are heading towards the trail. The trail starts ... parking for 15 PLN and a booth in which you need to buy tickets. This is one of those "I do not have to spend and what do you do to me" booths. We wait a while until the booth gets cash to round up to PLN 5 and we go to the forest.
What not to say is nice. How could it be otherwise, since there is not a single cloud in the sky, and the forest shines with every shade of yellow, copper and red. We are tirelessly moving up. The forest ends, and a forest of people appeared to their eyes. With each step is getting worse.
Nice views and pleasant communing with nature somewhere on the edge of civilization make the pipes with the pipe cooler, dudes with the brownie, people breathing, cursing, telling how "some ciapata recently left his neighbor", complaining that he is so uphill, so much so to the side, so up the stairs that such a piston would be useful in general. In the vicinity of Tarnica, the crowning culmination and people are so much that more will not fit. We escape from there faster than possible.
It's only better now. Tarnica is probably the Sea of Morskie Oko - take the shortest route, selfik and the shortest go to the pub. There is still no time for us not to see someone in the distance of several dozen meters, but for our amateur eye, they are already normal, nice tourists.
You've watched Monty Python's sketch about fish, that greet you in the aquarium. It is similar - as on gasses in the season - you only hear: hi, hi, hi.
The views are very pleasant, the trail continues up and down and only the last ~ 7km is a bit boring, because it leads along an almost flat, gravel road, through the forest, to the town of Wołosate. Abdomen empty, on legs broken about 25km and slightly over a thousand meters vertically. We arrive by bus to Ustrzyki Górne where we eat fried cheese and start searching for transport to the house.
Transport that was not there.
A bike that makes no sense.
And here, ladies and gentlemen, it turns out that there is a problem. Transport in the area exists, but only on condition that you live in Ustrzyki Górne, Wetlin or Brzegi Górne. Besides, there is nothing. We walk, we ask, nobody knows anything, and the words: Ustrzyki Dolne only smile. We hit a regge-man in dreadlocks, whose bus resembles a bus junction from the Scooby-Doo team and the drug copulodrome. He says he will give us a break - we agree. He answers that he was joking and thought that the price would deter us. Local busses want a minimum of PLN 160 for 43km, but I have the impression that this is also a joke and they would not throw us at all. We fail - our friends toss us a bit and the remaining 30km decide to beat the Bromptom from the trunk.
Because stops can and are, but they look a bit like a post-apocalyptic universe. There are also timetables. Buses run around 8, around 12 and around 16 ... usually only from July to August or on school days. There are also some private ones, but when, what and how - nobody knows.
Riding at the weekend the main (here even the side roads are the main) is some terrible pathology. Movement as in the center of Warsaw, avoiding centimeters and generally death on the road and zero pleasure. When it's dark, we decide to look for hitchhiking - for the first time in my life. Because it is not the darkness we know, it is absolute darkness. If something hits us, we will first fall into the abyss and then freeze.
In the autumn, in Bieszczady, it is: warm and bright, warm and bright, snap, darkness and permafrost. The snapshot takes about 10-15 minutes.
The first man at the gas station is already offering us help. He explains to us that hitchhiking is a completely normal and lawful mode of transport here. So we throw the Bromki into his trunk and go listening to the fact that you have to visit Wetlina, eat in the Wanderer's Cottage, try Ukrainian sweets from Biedra and visit Lviv (and live there like kings) - we will not do anything about it. To add a pathology, a nice gentleman escorts a friend who is riding in the car behind him, but he has just turned out of light and in absolute darkness he is only moving on the road. Bieszczady.
Nobody here, no-people
We start the next day a bit baffled. Bieszczady turned out to be something completely different from our imagination. We decide to abandon the obligatory visit to Polonina Wetlińska and to win Smerek (Smerek?) For something much stranger?
We decide to include 4 points on a random route ... on the squares.
Cheese that rules all cheeses
1. The idea gave us again the Culinary Criticism with the entry of the 5 best cheese makers, o this here. So we visited Czarnec PGR, that is, according to them, the best of the best. You can read about the history of this place, how nice Mr. Nikos Molonopulos has cows, goats and sheep in the linked post. For my part, I will say only this: an obligatory place.
From Ustrzyki Dolne there is an excellent road (in the sense of experience, not necessarily scenic or surface). In the end, we pass corners where there are no cars, houses in America could do for great tourist attractions, and the hills on the sides are just right. I like about 15 times more than here Proper Bieszczady. I decide that we will return to the Słonne Mountains Landscape Park at the first opportunity, because the area between Rzeszów, Przemyśl and Sanok can be quite good
Going back to the Sphere of PGR - the place is easy to miss. 17 cats (whose names are divided into tots and tassels depending on the sex) guard the property, which we enter through the open door ... and it looks like a kitchen and dining room in a big house. There are various cheeses at the entrance and it is only after a moment of waiting that we come in to ring the bell. Nikos leaves, gives samples that he could do for self-sufficient portions and take everything a little. A kilogram of any cheese is PLN 45. Each of them was supposedly made on the day we are there. I do not know about cheese, but the subconscious thought that they are perfect makes them so. It's like with bicycles, if you get on a bike that everyone says is good, it's hard to disagree.
I would recommend.
Beer is my fuel - said a million people on the way to Tarnica
I recommend the beer fans.
I'm a train
3. Have you ever wondered how Tomek's Steam Engine feels (the fairy tale Tomek and friends)? Probably not who cares about the feeling of a locomotive.
However, if you ever wondered or just wanted to do something strange, in the mentioned Uherce there are ... bicycle tramps. We choose a two-hour ride at 11.30 am - the cost of such an event is PLN 109 for a trolley (two people can pedal, two sit) - a lot. As you can easily guess, it goes ahead (slightly uphill), and then returns. Along the way there are two "pipe stops" and little else. I have mixed feelings. Driving a track car is a bit like an MTB race on a bicycle without gears, from the 9th sector, after the single on which you can not overtake. Maybe it would be nice if we did not come to the trolleys on bicycles on the way that goes along these tracks.
I do not recommend it. You can, but once in a lifetime, just to know that it's never worth it anymore.
The best hill in Poland.
4. Bezmiechowa Górna - Length of the driveway 3.3 km with an average slope of 7.3%. Elevation: 242m. Maximum incline per 1km: 10.1%. Maximum slope per 100m: 18.3%. (data from altimetr.pl)
Bezmiechowa Górna is, speaking in a youthful way, an assault, a pitcher, a breakthrough and, in general, King Macius and all the hills, but let's start from the beginning. A friend mentioned us at the top - he was never on it, and apparently cool. Google Street View does not associate roads in this area at all, and some anonymous man on the Internet wrote that this is the best view in the Bieszczady Mountains. He also wrote that a bike trail from Olszanica leads to the top.
I look at Google, I do not see the trail, but there is some way to break off and some main road. I forgot that the headquarters in Bieszczady may correspond to the 7th Masovian category and it was only a return that reminded us of it. But I do not regret anything! Especially that our path unexpectedly stopped and we had to bum under driveway straight from the Azoresand then through fields and forests. Je regrette rien as Edith sang!
That was IT. The place I was looking for in these mountains. Without people, without cars, without asphalt, with a great view and in order to finally be able to relax, someone has set up a small slide and two swings. Damn, you feel like on a famous swing in San Francisco (I wanted to see how this famous swing in SF is called, but after entering into the search engine San Francisco swing, the first result is entry for hopcycling ;)). I do not have time, of course, to sit down and relax, because the adventures are calling, but I'm making a screenshot in my head and I set my nice place. I will come back here with my thoughts at work meetings - again my participation in them will be reduced to "I'm sorry, I have not listened, can you repeat?".
What we can see later can be described by one cycling word: NO.
This is NOT that you say with ten different emotions: admiration, disbelief, horror, fatigue, excitement, happiness and so on. Here before us is a perfectly straight road that seems to pull up vertically. There are also streamers, frying pans, forest, panorama and at the top the Academic Glider Center of the Rzeszów University of Technology, from which the glider starts every now and then the car pulls it back. How good it is!
I do not know if the impact on the mountain seems to be quite difficult is the fact that we drive it up with bands - he he he. It does not matter - the driveway is beautiful and the top is even better. A clearing bisected by a path from the cube, after which the car pulls out the gliders.
Bezmiechowa Górna is for me a combination of Góra Żar and Łapszanki. Maybe short, but brilliant!
Bieszczady - I do not know
I do not know what to say about the Bieszczady Mountains. Even if the crowd was not there, I just do not know. Will I ever come back from my own free will? I doubt it, maybe in the winter. The Bieszczady Mountains are probably the most distant place in the country from Warsaw. They have alternatives to choose from, such as the Tatra Mountains and the Giant Mountains, with a high degree of probability, I will choose them. Closer, everything is easier, and even more impressive views. It's different when it comes to areas a bit north of Bieszczady - we will be back for sure!
Probably the entry would sound completely different if we did not hit the most crowded weekend of the year ...
After returning home, I read on the story of a friend who picked up illegally hung up election posters in the city. The guests, who hung them, recorded it and called the police. She received a PLN 150 mandate for the illegal destruction of electoral materials, they have a case in court regarding the illegal hanging (guess who will be a witness). Well, how not to be nervous? The whole trip in the sand ... although it is irrelevant looking at current air pollution.
And the main question that arises after this post: "How do you live with composers instead of roads?" I will answer in 2 weeks, when we check how they are doing when traveling by plane :-)
PS We got a very nice photo from the Star Bieszczady against the background of the Milky Way -> click <-