Jeseniky? Definitely worth it
Holidays are a hard time for someone who likes to run away from the city for the weekend, especially when you live in Warsaw. No Booking and Airbnb emptiness, and the prices are such that regardless of the choice I will end up without a kidney. Either I sell it to pay or I lose at night in a suburb hostel. Add to this twice the trip from Warsaw and Sunday return by road, on which the right lane goes 90km / h, and the left one500" winking at you with headlights. I'm still trying to pick myself up mentally after returning from Norway, and last week's visit to Świętokrzychach especially it didn't help. In fact, its only effect is that now residents of Kielce are sending me insults and photos of people showing themselves fakabecause I wrote that the grounds are great, but rather for a one-day trip and only if it's close. I needed something proven, stable and nice. What could be better than Jeseníky, which was first mentioned on the blog over 5 years ago!
Jeseníky are stable. I was there for the first time with a road bike about 8 years ago and apart from the fact that the roads are getting better, not much changes. They have now mostly reached a state that will be difficult to improve. Jeseníky are very good regardless of where from Poland you go to them. Very good. Just look at these segments:
Great-grandfather from Jarnołtówek: 40.6km / 3%
Jesenik - Praded: 33km / 3%
Karlovice - Praded: 25km / 4%
Karlovice - Praded: 25km / 4%
Malá Morávka-Praděd: 14.67km / 6%
Loucna- Dlouhe strane: 12.4km / 7%
Loučná n. D. - Dlouhé Stráně: 17.47km / 5%
and so on…
Jeseníky in a nutshell
With Jeseníky, the matter has always seemed simple - the standard loop is one and ensures good fun throughout the long day. At 165km it gets definitely more than 4000m vertically, conquers the highest peak of this mountain range - Pradziad, altitude 1491m above sea level, enters the water reservoir at 1353m above sea level visiting between them around the height of 410m above sea level and overcomes a series of 9 serpentine at Červenohorské sedlo. Add fried cheese and we have a recipe for success in the form of:
168km / over 4000m vertical
On the one hand, a lot, on the other so little that it is a bit difficult for us to break it down over two days, and yet the weekend has almost two days (because you have to go home on Sunday). So I started digging and it quickly turned out that Jeseníky is an infinite treasury of routes - above all MTB, but also largely gravel and even road. Hidden technical paths in forests, buried asphalts, access to villages - huge potential, which, unfortunately, we cannot fully check. So I present to you once again a loop that I do not know if it is the best possible, but in my opinion it is VERY GOOD and it hits the most important places. We decide to spread it out for a day and a half:
Loop: 260km / ~ 5000m
Saturday: 163km / 2860m, pedaling time: 8: 30h (Strava)
Sunday: 118.5 / 2060m, pedaling time: 6: 20h (Strava)
so that you can come home at a reasonable time. The numbers do not add up, because we did not plan to rebound for the night in Rymarov, but we bought everything else. So we're going with pajamas in the seatposts. Here she is:
Logistics of Varsovian: how to get to Jeseníky
Kill me, but I don't know why we chose Głuchołazy to start, since we couldn't find accommodation there, but in retrospect the idea seems to be perfect. From Warsaw to Głuchołazów it takes less than 5 hours, which is enough to leave on Friday after work and arrive at a reasonable time. There are three ways: each is different.
Through Częstochowa-Gliwice, i.e. a route that is not currently available, because it is being renovated.
S8 to Wrocław and via Nysa, a way that is very far away.
S8 and reflection on Opole, thanks to which we go so sideways that I wouldn't chase gravel.
It is not difficult to guess that we are choosing the third option.
We discover that there is a great castle in Byczyna, that the whole region is already a bit Germany (even the place names in German) and above all: that Opole is a beautiful city, especially at night. As if that wasn't enough, in Opole we come across a very good and recommendable pizza: Roman holiday. It is worth stopping on the way for a quick walk and having dinner there.
We spend the night in Prudnik, 15 km from the start and 50 km from Opole, in: Hotel Olimp. If your brain is a bit like mine, then when you hear Prudnik, you probably already have some vision in front of your eyes - that's exactly how this city looks. The hotel is cool, it has its own sports hall, instead of a garden there is a large square for archery with targets, behind which there is the slogan: KS Shoe. The hotel is clean, pleasant, breakfast very good with a Swedish table ... and a minute walk to Biedronka. At breakfast, classic trainers, as if taken straight from Polonez, and young, yet ambitious athletes.
If we had a choice, we would probably burn somewhere else, but it is not enough that finding accommodation in the area is not easy, but finding one that will accept guests after 22 adds a hint of difficulty.
If someone does not harm the rate per person per night, this option is quite good and convenient. Especially that we go to the starting place in the morning through the very center of the Opawskie Mountains Landscape Park, which is somewhat reminiscent of time travel. To build a picture in your head, visualize associations with: Children's Holiday House, summer camps, boarding house, Recreation and rehabilitation center, greywack mine and so on.
According to the principle that "under the darkest lighthouse" we leave the car at the city market in Głuchołazy, here. Strategically, I gave myself a stolen hubcap outside the house in Praga, so it won't be worse. The parking lot looks like it was created for people who want their car stolen, so I assume it will be safe.
The first 80km of the route is relatively flat. Ie. flat as for the average bread eater, for us they are already hills. At 50th kilometer, in Jeseník we have about 700 meters vertically, and 20km further, when we are close closures first loop, about a thousand. These are excellent areas that remind us a bit of the surroundings of Ostrava (entry from 4 years ago: Moravia - there is nothing here).
In a nutshell: perfect asphalts, zero movement, fields, animals, hills, sometimes a gypsy block and from time to time a typical Czech village. The perfect loop if you want to get rid of a budding friend who came with you to the Jeseníky Mountains while you are doing hardcore round the mountains. During breaks he can, for example, stop in the Caves of Pomezi or in lego blocks museum in Jeseníky. Unfortunately, I do not know how it is, because the budget for entering it has already been used at the stage of the store that precedes it, buying a shark-boy. Looking at Panda's face, this is the best money spent in recent years.
Jesenik (Jeseník) is also a good place to leave the family. That means leaving it on time when we go to ride. They are all here pensjonariuszowskie attractions like salt caves, magical healing waters and so on.
In Ondřejovice, our warm-up and romance end and the mountains begin. You can basically say that for the next 50 kilometers we climb to the highest peak in the area - Pradziada, passing 2 or 3 small exits along the way. Particularly noteworthy is the reflection in a small road in the town of Horní Údolí, which consists of 4 wide serpentine and quite substantial slope. Strava says something about 2.3km with an average of 7%, not much, but I sense a scam here. We also meet a nice gentleman who tells us something about bicycles in Czech. It takes us quite a long time to discover that he is a Pole who moved here 5 years ago and speaks Polish with a Czech accent. It is a pity, because Czech has never been understood so well.
Dear Sir, I invite you to my home, which is currently under renovation, to demonstrate to me my collection of bikes with folders, strange roads and MTB. Hoping for adventure, I leave Panda, but it turns out that he only shows me bikes.
Further, from Vrbna, there is only arduous climbing from 530m above sea level to the top of Pradziada with a slight descent at Kralova Studanka. Czech internet claims that it is the place with the cleanest air in Central Europe.
I have the impression that this congress was located only to annoy a man that he was adding a driveway. It is also one of the weakest parts of the route, which goes all the way to the famous parking lot with a barrier, which starts the driveway to the king of the area.
This is where the most traffic in the area is, and the number of cars that can be heard from a kilometer increases drastically. Of course, this is not a scale that I would describe as "annoying", but it does not fit well into the atmosphere of the entire loop.
9km with an average of 7% remains from the car park to the top of Pradziada. Great-grandfather is such a Holy Cross - regardless of everything, it falls to enter. The views from the top are quite good, mainly the forest on the way, and the place will be liked mainly by people who like how it spins wind and cold. Well, but it falls and should be - even for a photo with a tower and a full panorama of the area.
I must admit that from the whole round it was the entrance to Praděd that was the least exciting. However, this is irrelevant - at least once in your life it falls out, just like you would at Karkonoska. You can judge for yourself and in the future skip the driveway condemning to an avalanche of comments that Jeseníky without Praděd is not Jeseníky. I also know well that next time we will not miss him, despite what I am saying now.
For accommodation we have a very long downhill ride with a break to a slightly unexpected driveway near Nova Ves, which we do only with our heads, because the legs are not moving. It is a village situated on serpentine, on the top of which there is a tourist watchtower. It is too late to check it, so we have a trip along a hidden forest path.
We sleep in Rýmařov, which may not be on the way, but ... Our accommodation is a brewery where beer is brewed, from the windows we see Lidl, for dinner we eat a brilliant smažený sýr with hranolkach with brambor and a salad, and for breakfast we get scrambled eggs ham and sandwiches. All this is perfection worth recommending. In addition, the hotel is called: Pivovar and the hotel EXCELENT Rýmařov, and yet the name EXCELENT cannot lie. It may not be particularly cheap, but there is no problem, for example, with keeping bicycles in the room. I mean, no one forbids us, but maybe it is due to the fact that the Czechs do not speak languages other than Czech, so our attempt to communicate at the reception lasts quite a long time. Even despite the rich experience generated by a visit to a Polish-Czech wedding in Masuria last week.
We are being stormed all Sunday, and according to weather forecasts we are driving right in the center of it. Lightning strikes in the distance diversify the ride a bit and add notes of adventure, but not a single drop of water falls on us. At least I think so, because we're wet with sweat. We start the route perfectly, because from more than 12km a driveway with a stable 2% to the town of Skitrek - I would not recommend trying without coffee. There is a prize behind the hill, 13.5 km of downhill ride with an average of 3.5%. I have the impression that I fell asleep twice on the way.
However, this is nothing, probably the biggest challenge of this trip awaits us. According to numbers, maybe not as difficult as Pradziad, but subjectively, however, more difficult. Here is the driveway of the HC category: Loucna - Dlouhe Strane. The Internet claims that it is the third largest pumped storage power plant in the world and in fact, the tank located at the top is impressive in its size. This is obviously not the most important thing, the driveway to the tank is 12.5 kilometers with an average of nearly 7%. No matter how you look at it - Alpine statistics, and that's still Jeseníky
The power plant is approached from the south, because the road is narrow, forested with a surface good. The exit is free of civil traffic (only buses bringing tourists descending later on scooters) highway. In our humble opinion it is harder than on Praděd, but also much nicer. Anything is better.
Then one of the most anticipated moments awaits us: Famous streamers at Červenohorsk Sedle. I guess I can put it this way: Sunday afternoon gave us the worst streamers I went on in my life. While the road itself is OK - a wide, slightly boring highway through the forest with 9 swirls, unfortunately everything is destroyed by motorcyclists.
In the photo streamers - on the left you can see Pradziada in the distance, on the right, behind the windmills - the top with the tank:
On the street I feel like I'm in the middle of a Moto GP race. I think that on average there is about one motorcyclist per 200 meters of the route, and each of them returns after the end of the journey and returns along the same road. This generates constant noise, muck and stench. Even the police and fire brigade unsticking a motorcycle from the railing do not prevent them from reaching speeds referred to as a bit crazy and overtaking cars after continuous turns. We enter, shoot a photo from the drone and try to forget about it at the congress.
We go again to Jeseníky, but of course not far enough to follow the previous trail - we take the piece back earlier. Here, too, we are ruining our weekend plan, which assumed that the main purpose of the trip next to fried cheese is Michał's garlic soup in Penzion Rejviz. We clog up with buns in Lidl.
The last driveway of this trip is a forest road to the mentioned town of Rejviz, i.e. almost 10km with an average of 4%. Rejviz itself is excellent, because it looks like a movie set for a satirical film about the Czech Republic - such an open-air museum, which is not an open-air museum. From the top, we see perfectly smooth terrain behind Głuchołazy and there we follow a continuous descent to our parking lot, where, to our surprise, the car stands as it stood.
In Głuchołazy, we come up with a brilliant idea. It helps us to see a little man, in the same pants, which looks a bit like a Michelin man, and the way of wearing the pants clearly indicates that the future of the plumber awaits him. We go to the municipal swimming pool, where we fall for a quick shower (PLN 7 / person) and we can without shame visit the Roman Holidays in Opole again and return home to rest a day later at work.
Jeseníky can be summarized as follows: no matter what bike you have, if you are a real Pole, you should visit them at least once in your life. Indecently even roads, surprisingly little traffic, fried cheese, areas for both beginners and seasoned cyclists, that's what we're all looking for. This is how cycling Bieszczady should look.