Sep '18 24

Cycling Słupsk: fishes, windscreens and Passerattis

Słupsk - a small town somewhere in the north of Poland. One would like to say that Koszalin is such, but if this random Słupszczanin heard this, it would be the last sentence we have said.


If I were to exchange words related to the coastal area of ​​Słupsk, which appear in my head first, they would be: Sebek, Grażynka, screen, crowded, 170km / h with a burning Passat, disco-polo, inflatable castle, gofer, dipped ice, noise, full parking, Chinese trash, beer, pet on the beach, a guest with coconut, fried oil, wind, slippery, cork and a few others, not necessarily so positive.


And this is partly true. Only that apart from the most crowded places, there are also others - those hidden. Beaches where our Polish sand is one of the best in the world. The problem is that nobody speaks about these beaches because for what. It's like your physiotherapist - you have the best in the world, but you do not tell your friends about it, because there will be a problem with deadlines. So what to do? Arrive at other times than all of Poland.



September is, in my opinion, the best month. The holidays are over, families with children returned to the cities, and the infrastructure still works as students and childless survivors. The weather is still good, the sea is warm (compared to the rest of the year), and the rich Germans come to spend their euro only in autumn, when everything is closed and the outside is gray.



A trip to Stelvio can describe everyone, but try to describe the trip to Słupsk!



Using probably the last moments of exceptionally sunny weather this year, we went for a week to the sea .... let's say, because Słupsk is 18 km away from the sea (or 21km by bike if we want to go on a road where people who are in a hurry to get to the beach will not kill us). This, of course, is a bit too late, because the optimal date falls about two weeks earlier, when harvest festivals take place in neighboring towns.



Why would anyone come to Słupsk?


There are many reasons. These (subjectively) most important are:




1. Because he would like to become a policeman. A police school like this, with a candle to look for - from the end of the 2nd World War, about a quarter of a million people have finished it.

Quoting from Wikipedia: The school is located in a separate and closed section of the city, (...) a complex of several dozen buildings, among others after the former German female school (Lessingschule) from 1929, the lazaret from the 1930s and a dozen or so villas.


2. Because he's in Ustka, he's fed up with fried fish and would like to eat something normal - in Słupsk, he's the only one in the area around McDonalds


3. Because he was supposed to go to the beach, but the wind is blowing, it's cold and it's raining - here is the only one in the vicinity of Multikino, Decathlon and large shopping malls


4. Because he wants good ice cream, burgers and tea


5. Because he came to the Valley of Charlotte, but he can not afford to stay there


6. Because he is an American soldier stationed at the redzik anti-missile base, and in Slupsk it is easier to stay overnight


7. Because he is a fan of discounters - Biedronek (11), Lidlów (4), Netto (5) and Kauflandów (1)


8. Because he would like to take a picture of himself the most trends city ​​president in Poland


9. Because he came with his wife and counted on the fact that the Witches 'Tower still works (and he will go to the Pomeranian Dukes' Castle himself).


10. Because he is from Koszalin and he just felt like giving vent to his aggression





When it comes to climate, tracksuits, loud faders and techno - techno dominate.


The weather is the same as in the rest of the country, but it is a bit different.

If it's very warm everywhere, it's just warm here. If it's very cold everywhere, it's just cold.


On the Old Market Square, surrounded by tenement houses, cinema has always been a place. One day it was converted into a Biedronka - it says a lot about this city


If you go out riding a road and you have the impression that "I think it's a bit windy" - you can enjoy yourself, you have incredible happiness. Because the days when "a little blow" is exactly the same as the days when you can say that "I think it's blowing". So it's three out of a year. In the remaining spheres, evil and always in the face. Ending any route, you can easily add in the mental Stravie + 30% to the distance covered.




What to drive?


Problems start at the very beginning - which bike to take? The worst part is that I can not answer it.

The road will be fine, because there are a lot of roads here. Gravel will also give, because there will be a lot of hopeless asphalt, dirt roads and bicycle routes. MTB is, after all, a duty in these regions, because probably one of the best singles in the country runs between Ustka and Rowy. Fatbike is a bike designed for riding on the beach. You can travel by time on an equal country number. 6 with a reasonable road between Koszalin (tfu!) And Lębork (the capital of fries) - of course, except when it turns into S6, that is, the city beltway. I was about to write that it would be a problem with some enduro or other reunion, but then I remembered that the locals are building downhill routes (as far as local conditions allow) near Krępa in Słupsk. Okay, if I was looking for Enduro routes - I would not go to Slupsk ;-)

If I had to choose one: it would be an endurace road or slightly gravel - sure something with 28-30mm tires.


If you are interested in a slightly wider tire, I invite you to two entries about the Słowiński National Park and the local area. If the wider tire does not interest you (neither fat, 27.5, or whatever it is called), it is probably worth clicking and looking at the photos.




What to eat?


The choice is heavy, because there are two quite good burgers:


Full Bull located in the atmospheric Water Tower, entered in the register of monuments.


Milkshake Bar in a slightly more American atmosphere, where atherosclerosis is obtained from the very look at desserts and pancakes.


Morning Bar, or the oldest pizzeria in Poland ... although it does not have much in common with the well-known pizzerias, it has served them there for over 40 years. It resembles a little onion, but definitely more onions and fat in it than in commonly known supermarket boils. For me, a pizza / cake in Bar Poranek is the most obligatory point of the whole trip to the north of Poland. Dot. I eat one and feel that he stays with me for many more days.




Riding a loop towards Jarosławiec we have Herring homesteadin which it is easy to guess we will eat herring in a million ways - perfect for a snack while driving ;-) I reverse what I said about Bar Poranek, Herring homestead is the most obligatory point! As if that was not enough, there is also herring museum and many other things, with herring related, for example t-shirts I <3 Follow or follow me. Herring tartar, herring in cream, the potatoes in their uniforms freshly drawn from the big garage outside: ge-nial-ność.



In the opposite direction - going to Smołdzino, we have an ecological, seasonal restaurant Meadowwhich was created thanks crowdfunding action.


For dessert, you NEED to go to tea shop in Richter's Granary on a cake with - as it were - tea. Alternatively, you can take hot chocolate, which is said to be the best in the world.


And after the herring, cake and hambuks, you have to go for ice cream Petrykowska. If it was not enough, there are two other ice cream parlors - also quite good.


There are also a few well-known restaurants for this, but I do not go to such places, so I will not say anything. As an addition, you must of course eat a fish and chips on outdated oil somewhere near the beach, a dipped ice cream and waffle topped with toppings.

... and of course McDonald's ;-)



Where to go?


Here, too, there is a problem, because it turns out that you can go from the city in every direction and make a good loop. Statement: departure from the city is slightly different from the same concept, but in the context of Mazovia, because here, in the most unfriendly accident, it will probably take 10 minutes. In order to embrace it logistically, I divided the entry into four directions. The loops I give are only examples and can be comfortably modified. There are plentiful roads here and they are mostly divided into those with perfect and completely hopeless asphalt - everything depends on happiness.


Damn, how nice ... and empty ... and quiet ... and all.


Using professional maps in the style of Jacek Gmoch, sketched with the mouse in the graphically advanced program Paint, I will try to get a bit closer to where to go. In the country of footballers is probably the best way, and besides, giving ready-made tracks kills the imagination ;-)

If you have questions or are looking for a company, you can look at Strava to: Strava Słupsk Cycling Club.

And if you catch the failure (which you can not fix yourself with parts from Decathlon), they are waiting for you kawisbike and Doktorbajk


Let's start from the south:


The area around Bytów is the capital of Polish cycling ... one of many. Here, it is justified because the driving areas are excellent. Hopki, better and better asphalts and empty roads, after which every few minutes the light of the Passat or Astra is passing by at the speed of light. If it just does not hit us, we have peace for another half hour. It is also in this area that Kaszebe Runda is also played (report from 2018, report from 2017). It is also important not to mention the region's greatest attraction, i.e. palace Mr. Czesław Lang's home in Kołczygłowy. I will not be uploading photos, because I do not think I'm doing it, but I'm sure you'll find the right materials on the fact pages.



So let's start with the most important - south of Słupsk there are no impressive mountains, breathtaking views, or anything anyone could describe as epic or though obligatory to see. If you try a little bit, if you leave the city for 100km, you will do so under 1000 meters of elevation. There are, however, very pleasant and empty roads with full-length asphalt: from ideal to moderate to quite bad.

The most straightforward loop is the one marked in red. The yellow pass allows lazyszkom to shorten the route to just over 100km at the expense of longer driving on the main road.

Pink one of the largest driveways in the area is marked pink - by the many saying village of Górka and Górkania. It's 1600 meters with an average of 5%, and then a little more. Apparently nothing, but not much (in fact almost at all) is in the area of ​​driveways, marked on Stravie as category 4.



On the dark blue is the development of the loop (or an additional loop, if you do not plan to spend the whole day on a bike). Such a stretch, for example from Dretynia to the east, is around 20 kilometers of a heavily rough (but not holeful) asphalt stretching through the forest, during which we pass virtually nothing: only forest, sometimes signs for agritourism and some lake. This road in Łubno passes into an ideal, roadside, single-lane highway - if I was a pusher, I would probably go there on holiday - it goes on like that to Kołczygłów.


On the map I forgot to add that it is easy to return from Dębnica Kaszubska to the beginning of the loop through the Starniki to Borzęcin. We will miss a bit of the main road then in exchange for going through the same episode twice.



Somewhere between Slupsk and Warcinem is reflected in the infamous village of Zagórka - the main character of the film Arizona. If you have not watched, let me paste the description from Wikipedia:



The film tells the pessimistic story of the inhabitants of the village of Zagórki, 17 kilometers from Słupsk. In the village in 1990, the State Agricultural Farm collapsed. The pathologies, mainly drunkenness, grew among the people left alone. The title of the film comes from the wine of Arizona, which was very popular among locals.



It also talks a bit about the area ...



And the worst of all is that on the first kilometers of the route, near the Warcin and Barcin, the branches of a good asphalt to the east leave, thanks to which the route can be let go in a completely different direction and, unfortunately, not worse! After the remnants of old asphalt and new ones, straight from the European Union, we can break through:





I know that when you look at the map above, the first thing you want to do is check why someone put this fillet ik on it. At least I have it - it would be my first destination. Iks have a twofold meaning, because on the one hand, in Swołowo you will find a pavement, which you will not experience anywhere else, but on the other, it is the capital of the famous Land in Plaid.  Swołowo is also considered a European Village of Cultural Heritage. Nothing will ever be uncomfortable after this pavement.


Lord, what will you go to Belgium, how do you have such a tube on the street?



Again - the right loop is red, the part under Słupsk can be varied with a gray shortcut and get to the green route of the route to Ustka. Thanks to this we will catch the famous Charlotte Valley next to Strzelin. If the average Warsaw citizen (Warsaw is never average!) Heard something about this area, it is 86% related to the Charlotta Valley. Because if someone once told me that under Strzelinkiem, which lies near Słupsk, a large SPA complex will be created with ZOO, a seal center, enduro, triathlon competitions, extreme runs and festivals, where they visited, among others The Animals, Bonnie Tyler, Deep Purple, King Crimson, Omega, The Doors, Thin Lizzy, Uriah Heep, Carlos Santana, Alice Cooper, Bob Dylan, ZZ Top, Riverside, Korn and many, many others - I'd be tapping my head .


Quite accident we hit the Charlotta Challenge, i.e. a triathlon over a distance of 1/4 IM.


Departure from the city is a comfortable, asphalt bike path on Bierkowo, and then the traffic is already moderate all the time. The southern part is quite good asphalt, northern ... different ;-)

The purpose of the trip is obvious - the beach in Jarosławiec and possibly Darłowo. One day, when the path between the two towns ends, the loop will become even better and the number of people will multiply.



As for the views - we pass mainly meadows, fields, sometimes some animals and windmills that do not allow to forget that the area is blowing all the time.



It blows so much that if you came here for a walk with Christopher Froom, you would have to keep it on a string



The map also lacks another possibility for a shortcut - at Lake Wicko, between Królewska and Chudaczew. This route is not yet on the maps (although it does not look completely new at all), and we found it by accident, during cold calculations, whether we will manage to break the cloud.


Being in the area, of course, do not miss the Ustka pier and the promenade:


Which is the same as in Jarosławiec or Darłowo, but it is completely different. In Jarosławiec, it looks something like this:



North-east, or places for tourists:



East, or rather north-east, is a visit to 4 key places where it is worth taking a moment. This is a visit to the great and more empty than these "popular" beaches in Orzechów and Poddąbiu, to which lead the perfect, winding, forest asphalt (not counting the exceptionally bad fragment between them). Both lie in the characteristic dunes, which impression they make especially in the glow of the setting sun - I have not yet come across a visit to Orzechów, during which the young couple would not do a session.


Cliffs in the evening look SUN



The gray abbreviation is for people boring they like their equipment very much. Because while the vertical roads (ie from Wiklin and Żukowo down) are empty and great as usual, the horizontal link between them is something that everyone should see. This is probably the worst asphalt in the world, although I do not know if the road has more craters than it is the right path you can specify per asphalt.

But setting the distance has its advantages:



In addition, we will also visit Kluki (such a road to nowhere), i.e. a more well-known and smaller (quantitative) equivalent of Swołowa, or checkered houses. There, it is worth to squeeze a piece from the shoe to reach the observation tower on the Łebsko Lake and on the way back to the lighthouse in Czołpino ... but in total I do not know why.

Next to it is also Smołdzino, which lies under the famous mountain Rowokół. You can drive to Rowokół but it is not easy. At the top there is an observation tower, which probably never was open during my visit. I would say that closing the entrance is very difficult to cross, but it is possible - it would be illegal and irresponsible from my side ;-)

Yes for illustration: the driveway from the cemetery in Smołdzino to the top of Rowokół is 800 meters with an average of 12%.


A classic house in Kluki looks something like this:


What contrasts a bit with the smoky smoke, post-German buildings that pass miles later. You can feel a bit like in the Giant Mountains, especially looking at the remnants of German inscriptions on the facades ;-)




Other attractions include a drive through the village of Gardna Wielka, lying above a very nice Gardna lake, where you can take a funny photo by covering your finger with a letter n and pretend to be over the Garda.



Along the way, the views are standard - not the worst



Then it is just a convenient ride to Rowy, where you have to make an embarrassing photo of your backside under the name plate. I fought with each other for a long time, but I decided to give this view to me (but of course I have a picture).


Besides, some attractions are also in the city itself. For example pumptrack, after which drives is just pumping a compatriot at Brompton:




It's worth it, is not it worth it?


Well, it's not like there's a right answer for that question. If you go with your family to the Polish sea (for some reason), you will not be disappointed with routes - neither tourist nor training. Would I be pushing here especially for a holiday week? I doubt it. However, to the epic places like the Alps, the Dolomites, Garda and a thousand others, it is far away from Słupsk. If, however, you were looking for a place where you can rest a little from the crowds, work in September remotely and after work you can find those 3-5 hours for a bike - it's worth the most. I checked, I do not regret. It is a pity that Słoneczny runs until September 2, because less than PLN 60 for a ticket from Warsaw (bike for free) and quite a decent travel time is not a big deal!


And really it is worth going for even for the same pizza / pancake and herring - the rest is an addition!


PS If you still do not know if there are bunkers by the sea, I would like to inform you that yes, they are ... and quite good!

About the Author:
Every day I work in IT: I restart servers, I click on things and I ask if it has already been repaired. I spend my free time with friends on cycling. We visit the best parties, overcome the most spectacular routes, we ride in the toughest races. Blog allows me to develop my passion and describe the best of adventures, so that you do not have to repeat our mistakes. I am trying to stick to the unpopular rule that quality counts not quantity.