There are a lot of places in the world that were born in an unlucky location. I do not mean our country, which stands forever between east and west, because, no matter how you look at it, we have both mountains and the sea, and the weather allows you to ride comfortably for most of the year. Nor do I mean Warsaw, which in our wonderful country is probably in the worst possible place. In a place from which everything is just as far away and in which the main attraction is the do-not-know-what. But Warsaw is fair because the lack of strong aesthetic sensations is compensated by money and possibilities. This text is about something else.

It is about something called the Niemczańsko-Strzelińskie Hills and, in my opinion, it is the most unlucky place in the country. Why? Because if you ask me if it's worth going there, in 96% cases I will answer that it is not.

A digression on the Świętokrzyski family

I remember writing a blog post that it is not perfect in Świętokrzyskie. Immediately after its publication, I began to receive somewhat offensive comments, people sent me pictures in which they show "faka" and indignation in general. In fact, I'm not surprised. After all, it's like I came into someone's house and said: oh, here you are, i've seen better. Świętokrzyskie are cool, considering that they are the nearest mountains (hills) for most of the Mazovian inhabitants. Only that this blog is also read by people from other regions, and while pushing 150km to Kielce from Warsaw is the most justified, then there is not much sense in going from Rzeszów. For what?


And now, if you are a resident of Kielce, you probably think: you are spoiled for free from Warsaw, after all it is so nice with us. Of course it is - it can be nice everywhere, even when it's ugly. Even Szymon has recently discoveredthat it can also be nice in Warsaw. Only there are places where all this ładność it attacks you very intensively from all sides, and there are those that require a bit of effort to find it. So it is not difficult to understand that if a foreign-random man asks me if it's better to Rzeszów or Kielce, I will tell him that to Rzeszów. The Niemczańsko-Strzelińskie Hills have a similar problem. If someone asks me if I want to go there, I will say no - better a bit further.

Digression on depressive places

Here could be this paragraph about falling apart houses, large and poor farms, Golfs driving so fast that sparks and the dramatically sad history of these areas fly from the exhaust asphalt ... but it will not be. Depressive places are a bit different for me. These are the places where I do a thousand kilometers for a week and then do not drive for two weeks because it is impossible. That's most of those places you'll find in the category travels on this blog.

How was I supposed to write a laudatory text about the Świętokrzyskie family, how soon I returned from a trip to Norway? How to enjoy driving around Kampinos when you get back from two weeks of bikepacking in Taiwan? How to write a positive text about the Niemczańsko-Strzelińskie Hills when I have been sitting near Bystrzyca Kłodzka for 6 weeks and I see the panorama of the Kłodzko Valley bathed in the sun setting over the Table Mountains every evening?

But a spoiled Warsaw asshole - you will think. Because whenever you say it, you should clearly write Warsaw by the letter "f" to emphasize asshole (f). Man, unfortunately, gets used to stimuli and expects new and better things. That's probably why mountaineers climb higher, faster and more vulnerable.

The Niemczańsko-Strzelińskie Hills are unlucky because they are pretty, but they lie right in front of places that are very pretty. They are like Slovenia for a compatriot going on vacation to Croatia: nice, but there is no beach.

Niemczańsko-Strzelińskie Hills

Let's be honest, all the above text was written only to surround the letters from the hills, because I can't write so much about them.

and this is a blog, not a gallery

Such a thing as the Niemczańsko-Strzelińskie Hills does not exist for the average cyclist who does not live near Wrocław. It is such an area through which one of the most dangerous roads in Poland passes "going to the mountains". You can also see him from the A4 highway, when you don't know what to do with your eyes.

Usually, when I can't say exactly what is cool in a given place, I define it as: for connoisseurs. And that's how it is there.

The most important information that may interest you?

Roads are very bad and sometimes (very sometimes) exemplary. 

The hills are low, but they can be steep. 

Cars are seen sporadically, but they go faster than you can imagine (considering the surface).

It's nice, but because of the surrounding areas, prettiness you have to find some

But it does not matter, because in Dobroszów there is something to see. In my opinion, if you have one day and you want to spend it for some reason on the Niemczańsko-Strzelińskie Hills (for example, to make me angry and then write: it is great there), you should go to Dobroszów. Here's what's there:


And this requires no comment. Your whole trip will be fulfilled. In addition, you'll be in Dobroszów. From there you will have views that you will only appreciate when you learn what you see: Jeseníky with Praděd, power plant in Opole, table, sowie, fragments Kłodzko Valley... and all the same nice places where the views are somehow more impressive. 

A visit to a whale shows well what to meet in the area. If this doesn't convince you at all - skip the visit.

You can park in Ziębice: a beautiful and scary city at the same time - see how you don't believe on Google Maps. They don't kill us, because despite WX registration I drive a non-metallic Skoda navy blue without a hubcap and with such mud on the trunk that fear is coming. If your husband / wife does not travel and have nothing to do with them, they can go, for example, watch irons and cutlery at the Household Appliances Museum. Rushing through Ziębice I wasn't Ewabecause it is the hometown of Edyta Górniak.

You leave the city on the only right path - through Family Allotments and then with singles (yes, they have singles here) to Nowy Dwór and the main one to Henryków. There from the main street of the city, which does not stand out, you squeeze through the not very impressive gate, above which hangs a three-language sign Henryków Abbey. Here I should write something about the Cistercian Abbey, the book of the founding of the monastery of Saint Virgin Mary in Henryków and the oldest Polish sentence, but you can read it on Wikipedia. What is worth knowing from the cycling ignorant perspective is that it is worth seeing this building.

Then you fly through Witostowice to your destination. There is super asphalt along the way, and then a heavy driveway with the worst asphalt in the world. So bad that you drive off the roadside just to avoid it. Over the years and the destruction of subsequent asphalt patches, the surface gets better. When the paved surface disappears completely, it will be cool.

In Dobroszów, you go to see a whale and discover that the church is only open to mass on Sunday and Thursday (probably at 18.30). You come back there on one of those two days ... or ask anyone about a church key.

Kościelny lives in such a large farm. We come there just when a nice gentleman was mowing the grass, who still regrets that despite his business visit to Warsaw he was not delegated to the arrival of the Holy Father (damn it!). The grass is cut the other way around, I don't know how this man still has heels. Interesting stories are many and perfectly fit into the surroundings of chickens, a beautiful and wooden latrine and standing in the middle of everything, Housing clean Tico. A nice gentleman calls the church who takes us to the church. Worth it.

Then you can head for Pogroda, Kaczowice, Samborowiczki and the directional relapse. What next - I do not know, but a bit of unplanned exploration will only add charm. For example, you can follow random paths to the castle in Gola Dzierżoniowska, a very nice place. Then south towards Ząbkowice Śląskie and of course for a photo in Stolec.

And that's how it is. When in the evening I come back to the Bystrzyca Kłodzka area, I think that it is 46x nicer in the valley ... but in the evening I think a bit about these hills and what else they can hide. The valley is of course so pretty and impressive, but the hills need to be explored.

Conclusions and lessons

This lengthy and over-intellectualised introduction in connection with the description of the route through the Niemczańsko-Strzelińskie Hills induces some thoughts. Visited places are judged by the places you have already seen and which immediately preceded your visit. What if I like it everywhere, because it is just a bit boring in Mazovia? Maybe this is where the Świętokrzyski phenomenon comes from, which are simply close. Or maybe I just like it everywhere where I have yet to drive down roads? What if the Kłodzko Valley pleases so much because we spent the previous weeks locked in four walls of viral isolation? And above all - what does it matter.

In retrospect, when I think about traveling, I usually remember those evenings that we spend at the pizza or leftovers of food hunted at a gas station. Empty eyes, sitting in a lajkra, because where do you get the strength to get out of them? Recalling crises, navigational mistakes, visions of death from hunger or from exhaustion and everything that seems super-funny from today, but it did not laugh while driving. 

Just like this Norwegian bikepacking - probably the most beautiful route I've ever traveled (and I will ever ride) in my life. Entering such a Dalsnibba is rape on your senses and such views that your head explodes while looking. In retrospect, however, I often remember the crises that the boys and I went through the next days. Like the one that we started incredibly tired after hours of cycling through the wet meadows the previous day, and we ended up with 240km / 4000m defeated in heavy rain, snow, hunger and 7-kilo luggage.

norway bicycle

Nice places are nice, but sometimes this is secondary.