Please, don't describe the Kłodzko land. It is beautiful there and so far quiet, peaceful, cheap. Let it stay that way. 

Andrzej K. in Facebook commentary to our visit here.

This entry is not about the Kłodzko Valley at all. My deficiencies in geographical knowledge come out in the first word of the title, so I wouldn't expect that the substantive level would be particularly better. Well, I advise you that at school they taught me more about the Sumerians in Mesopotamia, which is why I know more about the Euphrates and the Tigris interbase than about this ginseng in southwest Poland. Basically, I only hear about it when record holders in polluted air are served in the autumn and the map looks a bit like land accidentally taken away from the Czech Republic. The unofficial division is supposedly such that Silesians come to these regions, and the real Varsovian (or jar) goes a bit further to Jelenia Góra. No matter how you look at it, Karpacz sounds more luxurious than Lądek Zdrój.

This is an entry about the Kłodzko land that surrounds the Kłodzko Valley. Because you know - the basin: it's flat inside; land: it's flat plus hills all around, and we like hills, though. For those who do not like reading I will write in bold letters: the Kłodzko land is one of the most beautiful places in Poland, but they are not the Tatras - I cannot universally recommend it to everyone. Well, if I sent here the symbolic Krzysztof on the road with 25mm tires, I would lose a colleague ... and if you have seven colleagues, you can't risk it.

This whole post does not make sense. See photos and you'll see everything.

The text does not include the Owl Mountains, because the whole text was about them last year, although from the point of view of a road driver. That's when my perception of the world changed and I wanted tires over 30mm. I invite you here: Sowie Mountains - mountains, holes and a gloomy climate. Let's take an example: here is a photo of the road in Kąty Bystrzyckie (next to the Siniak mountain and accommodation with the graceful name Das Lux-Häusla), which begins at the intersection, looking like entering the property and ends with an unexpected change into a forest path:

It is similar in the Kłodzko land. Asphalts are good and bad, the buildings look so terrible that the chimneys emit smoke, which resembles the smell of the braking peloton at the exit from Bachledówka, and when the weather is bad, you start looking for zombies and Nazis. Yes, I do not recommend visiting these areas when the sun is not shining or when the heating season is full. This prompts you to ask yourself one very important question.

Is it nice I do not know.
If the Alps are Daniel Craig, then the Kłodzko land is Mick Jagger.

Mom, am I ugly? Asked the valley
No, daughter, you're special.

There is no doubt about it being nice here. At least when it comes to nature. The roads are empty, the hills are beautiful, forested, colorful ... and only human activity can appeal to everyone. Will it fold? The answer is simple. Imagine seeing a large, slightly falling farm from the 18th century. Around a few not-so-pretty Jesus in the shrines, a roof has collapsed somewhere, a wall is crumbling somewhere, and your first association is that horror in a Victorian, home-eating house. There are two options: you say "terrible" or "terrible ... great!" I am probably the latter. Places hide so many secrets that in each of the villages you would pass you could create a full-fledged photo album. However, this has nothing to do with these sterile and forced mountain villages, known from the Alps or the Dolomites.

Kolarsko, for me it is Podkarpacie with worse asphalt, but with much higher hills.

One thing is certain, the Kłodzko land without problems meets one of my main criteria, defining a given place as real mountains. Meaningful loops can be easily determined here, which have a minimum elevation of 2000m per 100km.

Kłodzko Valley for readers only text in points.

Any place, because you'll get anywhere by bike. From the center close to everywhere, around the hill, so the views are better. If you want to lose a cycling friend I recommend Wataszkę - a beautiful place, beautiful view and the only way to get there is a driveway close to 3km with an average over 10% (from Bystrzyca 9km / 400m).

I do not know. Maybe trout in buried roadside fryers. The most frequently mentioned place is PTTK Jagodna hostel. Besides rude (positively) pizzeria Abakus in Lądek-Zdrój and fancy pizzeria / restaurant La Salle restaurant in the Bystrzyca Kłodzka market.

In search of local specialties, we found Rolada Bystrzycka, which later turned out to be Rolada Ustrzycka, and Kotlińskie Specjały, which turned out not from the Kłodzko Valley but from the Kotlin Valley near Poznań.

Bicycle service: in Kłodzko - I recommend it.

Some perfect surfaces (main roads and some randomly distributed), a huge amount of hopeless surfaces, an infinite number of forest roads (also forest highways)

Road traffic:
Apart from a few main roads, traffic does not exceed 1 car for several to several minutes. Local drivers have a not very flattering opinion, but we have not experienced problems.

When rapeseed blooms in May; in late summer, when the trees take on many colors or just in summer

For whom:
For enthusiasts of strange and original constructions, history enthusiasts (everything here is a degraded monument of time), people looking for unpaved roads online, forest and rural explorers, smog fans, people bored with the Bieszczady Mountains, romantics, poker historians, beginner walkers, patients.

Is it worth it?
It's definitely worth it, but a tire wider than 30mm. There are better places in the country for road bikes. I will not hesitate to use the statement: for bikes with a 30-40mm tire one of the best places in the country.

Equipment, that is: Kłodzko Valley - by what bike?

Let's start with the most important: which bike to take here and why?

My recommendation, and I am a man who shuns anything requiring breaking with two wheels from the ground, is very simple: anything on 33mm-40mm wheels and pressure around 2-4 bar. Generally, you'll see here mainly MTB / Enduro and from time to time a professional on the road (especially around Zieleniec).

If you plan to venture into the field or explore really side bitumen, I also highly recommend a ratio with a ratio of at least 1: 1.

I would be tempted to say that the perfect trip (for me) consists of: 10% perfect asphalt, 65% hopeless asphalt, 25% off-road option.

Completely comfortable 18% somewhere around Rogóżka

The whole region is really the capital of bicycles that I don't know about, because as you say: Klodzko Valley, you hear the singletrace Glacensis. You hear singletrace, you take enduro. If you are interested in this topic, I refer you to people who know this, because I'm definitely not me, it is, for example, 1enduro: There are maps, descriptions, criticism and everything you need.

The area consists of a limited network of randomly distributed ideal asphalt, a very large amount of tragic asphalt and an infinite network of roads through the forest. By tragic asphalt I mean the worst surface you've ever seen. The surface is so bad that if the Flanders pavements were dropped from the plane, the situation would improve. Asphalt at which distant wilderness of Albania and Montenegro is a luxury. That's why 35mm with low pressure seems optimal here. You will go everywhere, combine everything, see the most.

Where to go I do not know.

Stupid no?

I postpone writing this point for weeks and every day, I was afraid of it even more. Every day, no matter how much YOLO there was a route, I came back with the statement: "oh, you have to add to the list" And so the list grew. While the life of a road driver is rather simple here, because there are several loops, for a "unlimited possibilities" of a slightly wider tire there is a serious problem. For a man like me, with chronic cycling syndrome FOMO (fear of being bypassed), there is a drama here. Imagine someone telling you: this year you only have two weeks of vacation, an unlimited budget and go wherever you want. You think: cooland after a while: Oh no.

And so it is here, the entry about routes does not make sense. I remember asking Wojtka S. for what he recommends and sent me a map. I thought that she was getting fucked up and me. After several days of driving, I could only accuse him of one thing: he forgot to mark the north-eastern part on the map, which is also good. After the first two weeks of driving here mine Heatmap she looked like the picture below, and the number of roads that I haven't traveled yet made me dizzy:

on the left a map of routes from Wojtek, on the right my heatmap after 2 weeks of driving

And now, you will ask which roads are particularly worth visiting, and I will tell you ... each of them is cool. And cool, and the chapel. What is this information? Then I thought that maybe I would make an entry where there are two best routes and that I especially recommend them, but it also did not work out. Then I sat down to draw a map of what came out - you can see at the end of the post. I could not sleep at night, worried that I would recommend a route to someone, and he would travel through it and bypass it something.

Therefore, unfortunately, I will not give you ready routes. I will simply make a list of characteristic places that you can connect in any way you like and I guarantee you will be satisfied. 

It is also worth adding another important issue - we are stationed in New Waliszów, in a region I have never been to, but looking at the history of my journeys in the area - this is probably the unconscious center of roads worth crossing. and next to them are reliable Jeseníky!

Giant Mountains, Jeseníky, Kłodzko Land, Moravia ... live, drive, don't die.

Singletrack Glacensis

Like singles, but gravel paths

You can't start with anything else: Glacensis - a system of 260km of routes consisting mainly of singles (such single paths). If I had a bike with a big shock absorber, I could ride it and shave with an ax, previously dressed in a plaid shirt, I would probably be disappointed. But I do not have. We came here on thin, 35mm tires and most singles are just-in-time. Sure, there is nothing to say about some great flow, because as soon as you go down, you will lose your teeth on the first stone or root encountered. Singles (at least those with a 1-2 of 4 difficulty scale) are simply nice forest paths prepared for the bike. A nice addition to forests through which an uncountable number of gravel highways extends.

I especially recommend routes: Ostoja, Pod Śnieżnik, Stronie, Złoty Stok, Orłowiec. Singles are not so cool to choose especially for them (for gravelowca), but they are an excellent addition to the routes traveled and sometimes it is worth to entwine even a piece of them on the planned route. Because they run mainly through forests, there are not many views. Not only that, they are usually run alongside the main forest roads (which is logical from the point of view of maintenance), which makes you feel like a person who likes to obstruct your life. Streamers appearing in groups that would not be ashamed Stelvio they are so tight that riding them in a bicycle with a lamb requires some gymnastics.

But generally great, especially as a variety. Look with the rest:

Marcinków / Góra Skowronia

Probably the most beautiful off-road

If I had to choose the most charming episode in the area, Góra Skowronia wins. It is only a few hundred meters off-road agricultural road, but with an excellent panorama stretching in each direction. You can enter from three sides and each is difficult, from Kamienna we have over 2.5 km with an average slope of over 10%, from the south a terrain copy practically from the peak of Puchaczówka, from the north a rocky burst, after which I had to make a walk of shame, riding a bike. To illustrate what you can see around and how many mountains there are, I will cite Wikipedia fragment:

"The woodless peak is a perfect viewpoint on the Kłodzko Valley (actually the Górna Nysa Trench) and the surrounding mountain ranges: Sowie Mountains, Bardzkie Mountains, Złote Mountains, Bialskie Mountains, Śnieżnik Massif, Bystrzyckie Mountains and Table Mountains. The High Jeseník emerges from behind the Bialskie Mountains. "

Sudecka highway

One of the highest asphalt roads in Poland

The highway is one of those roads that you cross. It largely consists of very good asphalt, but it also has asphalt sections so bad that it can't get worse. Really. Of the things worth mentioning, on the way there is a large ski station in Zieleniec and a viewpoint above Gniewoszów (pictured nearby). I don't know you there, but Destination Lycra wrote, that the surroundings of Zieleniec are great, both on the road and in the Grejwala.
If I had a very limited time, I would avoid the Sudeten Highway, and focus on the road which runs through a large part of it in parallel:

The Orlica Valley

Category winner: the most pleasant road

To a large extent, an alternative to the Sudecka Highway is a small border road.
The road you must cross, period. Especially if you are in the area with a road bike, because the surface is even worth a roller skater with plastic wheels. It starts a bit behind Zieleniec and runs along the border (and the Orlica River) to the south. About 30 kilometers of empty, perfectly level and sloping road (if you're driving south). At the end, either you land in Międzylesie, or you bounce a bit earlier to a field copy to:


Probably the best view of the valley ... another, off-road

The most common information I received after being notified that we live in a valley is: have you entered Kamienczyk yet? The view is great! The driveway from Smreczyn to the border is about 3.7km and 250m vertically. It is actually nice, although I would not say that somehow particularly better than in other places ... but!

A piece behind the mentioned village of Kamieńczyk there is a terrain copy to the Lesica - Międzylesie road and I must admit that this copy has one of the best panoramas of the whole valley we have seen. A bit similar to the one on the vantage point over Gniewoszów, but something better. I would recommend.

Burned Pass

A classic with pancakes.

Probably the most famous mountain pass in the area - the Mecca for road drivers. Get ready for the repeated question: "and Burned in ?!". From the Bystrzyca side it is a pleasant 9km / 436m with nice views and the Jagodna shelter on the summit, where food awaits. An ideal way for a fast loop when you use the Sudecka Highway, the Orlica Valley or just a neighboring (slightly more damaged) road to return. Simply put, asphalt without too much philosophy - fast, even, perfect. At the top you can add 12km of cool singles with free in the form of an observation tower on the way. In principle, no - you have to add, at least the one on the east side ... as soon as they finish building it.

Uranium Mine

But how?

It's not really about the uranium mine itself, which is undoubtedly a big attraction, but about the rebuilt road that leads to it. This is one of the roads you definitely don't expect here. Perfect asphalt, which, combined with the passage through the town of Janowa Góra up to Sienna (any side, although the longer west, so better), gives an excellent road crossing.

Stołowe Mountains and Hundred Curves Road

Classic: falls out and is not worth it

The Table Mountains are the famous Hundred Bends Road. The name itself says that you have to go there. And I don't know ... maybe you have to, but once in your life and that's enough. The problem is that the whole Stołowe Mountains are probably much better terrain - even once it was created blog post about how we rode fatbikes on them. On the road, the prettier ones are seen from afar. Yes, there are interesting rock formations, some bends and very good asphalt (from the eastern side), but is it enough to go there? Not necessarily, especially since shooting at the moment when the traffic on the road is pleasant, borders on a miracle. People just know that it's better to get there by car and go for a walk than to get through a bike.
It is 23 km and 500 meters vertically from Radków to Kudowa-Zdrój, the return road is just as long (wow, shock) and similarly high. The bike path from Wambierzyce (called Silesian Jerusalem - for a reason) to Radków is very nicein Google it looks like this).

Don't get me wrong - Stolowe are also beautiful and great for a bike, we just didn't get there captivating views (except for MTB and pedestrians), and the number of people discouraged some of the main asphalt attractions. There are too many attractions in the area to give someone a second (or third) chance here.


There is no need to explain the stool, everyone understands by itself.

Neither it is especially in the valley, nor especially worth visiting. I doubt that someone normal would have to go to a place with a graceful name: Stolec. We are happy to be able to register online at a place called Castle Ruins in Stolec. Because you know - stool = poop, even if everyone says it's a stool.

Those willing can visit on the occasion of Laski and Pitchers. Makes me laugh

Shrine of Our Lady of the Causes of Our Joy "Maria Śnieżna"

Surface: 100% ROAD; Marianówka - Góra Igliczna: 3.7km / 250m; Bystrzyca Kłodzka - Góra Igliczna: 12.6km / 460m

How could you leave something called the "Shrine of Our Lady of the Cause of Our Joy"? I do not know.
There are many stories about the sanctuary, mainly because of unusual priest. For example, Internet searchlights will find the story of a tourist who came to the observation deck with a dog (York), but not allowed and got a shot from a stun gun. Strategically, we don't cross the fence, but it's still worth it. View of the valley - the shtetl The sanctuary itself is also a jig when viewed from below. The Internet says that you can get from the sanctuary off-road route to Marcinków.

HC Bystrzyca Kłodzka - Czarna Góra

The HC category segment, which is not on Strava ... almost all in asphalt: 19.7km / 816m

Driveway of category HC, slightly colored for the purpose of entry ;-)

Strava won't tell you about it (or maybe he'll tell you, she didn't tell me), but there is a segment hidden here, which, according to my calculations, belongs to the elite group Hors Catégorie. Moving from Bystrzyca Kłodzka, we go asphalt to the top of the Puchaczówka Pass ... and then we turn sideways to the mast visible during most visits in this area - it is the Black Mountain. The additional fragment consists of a surface that I would call "a road cannot be built, but if you want it can be done". The driveway is from my point of view for typical cycling masturbators, because it is not enough that it is not on Stravie, the top is ... the mast and the lack of any view. However, I have the impression that the summit is not where I was, but a bit further, in the place where Google Maps says "lookout tower" and suggest that it looks Oh yes. I will check it again because the single "Milky Way" is running next to it.

Puchaczówka pass

Treat yourself to a little Podhale

Dramatic driveway from both sides: Some 7.5km and 400m from the east and 12.5km and 550m from the west. Ideal asphalt, sometimes a town, sometimes a forest - great for training for road bikers, not necessarily for everyone else. It doesn't matter, because I can't imagine riding and avoiding this route here. At the top there is a shepherd's hut with a considerable number of sheep, a VERY GOOD vantage point. The point is located behind the streamer, so on the track from GPS it will look like you flew past the barrier. A place especially recommended around the sunset. There is a shepherd's hut, there are salmon sausages and most importantly - there is also sheep grazing. There is also a Czarna Góra Resort, but only those who spend their holidays in Krupówki will like it. The pass is cool, because you can also get to it by terrain, both singles, and through the scenic-view Mount Skowronia.

Going to the top from both asphalt sides is dramatic for the psyche, but if I had to choose, I would drive from the east. A little shorter, a little steeper, and the descent to Bystrzyca Kłodzka is a fair reward.

Jaworowa Pass

A pass like Stelvio ... i.e. only the number of motorcycles is similar.

Cool, twisted asphalt. Smooth as a table from the north, not very pleasant from the south. With any luck, you may not find a Golf TDI race there with a trip of motorcyclists, who can hear seven forests and seven mountains away. The alternative are singles tossed sideways with a number of serpentine, which the Swiss driveway would not be ashamed of ... only 10x narrower. From the south, 7.5 km and 300 m vertically, from Złote Stok a bit more, because there is a small descent on the way. If you are on the road - you have to, without a road - you don't have to.

Bystrzyca Kłodzka, Nowa Ruda, Kłodzko

So ugly that it's nice

There is a shadow of a chance that for juxtaposing Nowa Ruda (the worst air in Lower Silesia) with other cities, I will be frying hell, but for me, ignorant, are similar. Each of these cities is terrible at first glance, the other is even more terrible, but in each subsequent one begins to notice their amazing and unique atmosphere ... especially on Saturday night, when they look like Resident Evil. Such Bystrzyca, let's say it, preserved, for example, the original layout from the Middle Ages. And to tell the truth, if it were not for billboards, individual facades and shop windows, I could believe that I went back in time. The number of strange but impressive buildings can be summarized while driving only by a quote from the classic:

What the fuck is that ?!

rally pilot from youtube when he saw a tractor on his way

I know, visiting cities is not this blog, but the cities mentioned above are worth it. Plus such random (for uninformed) meetings with basilica-type places in Wambierzyce, Palace of Marianna Orańska in Kamieniec Ząbkowicki, holiday house Giant in Tyrolean Międzygórze, Maria Śnieżna and many, many others. They are both beautiful and scary. Marianna Orańska is particularly successful here. I'm pretty sure the surname comes from for wounds, but a building! . When my girlfriend opened the list of monuments (don't ask), it turned out that there is almost everything here, probably even the barn I am looking at. And churches - each, even the smallest town has its own little Licheń. One thing can be said about churches: THESE ARE NOT SMALL THINGS.

The house, or rather the farm we live in, fits in perfectly with this atmosphere. Especially when you consider that he lives with us Czechoslovakian wolfdog.

Random forests and places


In addition to everything described above, there are still one hundred thousand places that I think are worth passing. The forests are intersected with singles, comfortable gravel roads, stony paths, excellent asphalts intertwine with hopeless ones, impressive views appear out of nowhere, architecture surprises, and when they open borders one day (because now we cannot travel to the Czech Republic through what-known-virus), I will never sleep again because I will draw routes in Komoot. 

I wanted to create such a map with the best places marked, but I did not succeed. I marked a few places worth visiting and passing, and then found that it did not make sense at all. There are no best places here, this region is good as a whole - seriously.
In red - road, in blue terrain (the stronger the color, the better).

There was a map here but it broke, so I deleted it. One day I will add it back, but all in all it didn't make much sense ;-)

So I invite you to photos that try to prove it.

The biggest disadvantage of staying here is that you are averse to driving on normal asphalt. That is, those that other people move around.

Lower Silesia FTW!

... and as I am well aware that as soon as this entry is published, the inbox will fill up with the messages: "hey, I know that everywhere, but can you recommend one particular route?"I inform you: it is so good that there will be a special supplement on the blog called:"The route, which omits a lot of cool things, but is the essence of awesomeness". Meanwhile, I'm coming back to plan and pamper her.